«Montenegrins? What is?
— Bonaparte has questioned:
— The truth l: this tribe malicious
Is not afraid of our forces? »…
… And Frenchmen hate
Since then our free edge
Also redden, if will catch sight
Our cap accidentally.

A.Pushkin. «Bonaparte and Montenegrins».

Monastery the Jail — Montenegro, Montenegro! Where it? Near to Paramaribo?. No, Montenegro is not the South America.
These are the Balkans. Only the majority knows this country, as Montenegro. «Monte negro» — in Italian, «black mountain».

The essence one, and sounds differently … Inhabitants ancient mountain nahy (areas) name the republic Montenegro, and inhabitants of multinational coast call it Montenegro. And they live as if in two different, parallel worlds, — though and in one country …

Unsubdued mountaineers

Somewhere away below, in the very bottom valleys, a snake shine road loops. From a bus window it is visible, as under hundred-metre breakage sun beams are stolen from a small village to a small village. The bus as if flies over a precipice.

On persons of passengers a pray turned to the driver and, probably, to local gods … Suddenly the bus sharply stops. We have met with small avtomobilchikom, — on narrow road not to miss each other … Eventually, "opponent" makes way and long moves back back uphill.

— Do not worry, all is normal, – the guide calms. — a monastery the Jail patronises local drivers. For all time that there is a road, any bus has not broken. We under protection of hallows of sacred Vasily Ostrozhskogo …

Stuck to steep rocks as a nest of a swallow, the monastery is almost inaccessible to foes. It is necessary to destroy a small site of road, and nobody can reach here. Turks, and those only few times could get on these rocks.

… the Narrow vertical short flight of stairs conducts uphill. The rare branches more similar to holes, are lost in darkness, whence blows as an incense.

Monastery the Jail

The icon costs directly on the rock which has been filled in with wax and oils. In a small dim window — lampadka with hardly burning wick. And when eyes get used to twilight, in the heart of a vestry (a small churchlet in a rock) there are bright eyes of the monk. It has so merged with surrounding conditions, that he can be accepted for a dark icon among candles and lampadok. In one of rock cracks the artillery shell lays. That about which the legend … speaks

Sacred Vasily Ostrozhsky — the patron of Montenegro

According to legends, many miracles occurred in a Montenegro monastery the Jail where sacred Vasily's hallows are stored. Till now in a monastery located among mountains, there come hundreds pilgrims. And monks tell it about the amazing facts from the far or recent past …

In 1714 when the Turkish commander the Numan-pasha with fire and a sword has passed through Montenegro, ostrozhskie monks have dug hallows on the bank of the river Sets. Then, almost in one and a half centuries, Turks have again come to Montenegro; in 1852 the Omer-pasha with a 17-thousand army has burnt the Jail. But the brother of the Montenegro prince, Mirko Petrovich-Negosh, with one hundred soldiers has outstripped the pasha.

Taking St. Vasily's hallows, at night it has sliped by groups a Turk and has left in TSetine – ancient capital of Montenegro. On a legend, sacred has made group Mirko invisible …

The n traveller E.Markov who has visited the Jail in 1903, wrote: «these Hallows — the greatest national relic of Montenegrins. They are ready to leave on burning to the enemy all houses, to throw wives and children on a destiny arbitrariness, but to last drop of blood to protect hallows of the prelate».

In 1942, during bombardment by Germans of the Jail, in a monastery the shell has got, has broken doors of church of the Fair Cross, has broken up on two parts, but and has not blown up. Here it also lays in one of vestries, as a material evidence of the next miracle of St. Vasily.

… From a vestry the narrow course conducts further upwards. One more small chapel, still … Speak, tiny vestries similar to caves jam people during service, — but now only shouts of the baby therefrom reach. Darkness leaves a Montenegro family with the child on hands, behind them the father in a black cassock comes up.

Complacently squabbling with each other, the numerous family rises on one flight and gets on an original balcony of a monastery. Here all is got, as if on command, by pieces of paper and something is scratched accurately on them. Then everyone searches in a rock free treshchinku that, carefully having combined, to leave in it the message …

— Prelate Vasily, help … — they whisper to a silent rock. Over the top platform of a monastery only eagles play with a wind yes a ring of a monastic belltower is carried around. The answer because of a ridge reaches whether an echo, whether a ring of the next monastery mislaid among mountains.

In general, all Montenegro lays in mountains. Here few fertile valleys, – only ridges, yes precipices, yes currents of the rivers. A canyon of the river Container the biggest in Europe and the second in the world after the Grand Canyon Rio Colorado.

On these earths it is heavy to live, but enemies here too do not reach. And if rise, the majority here and remains. For this reason Montenegro only formally was considered as the country which has got under a Turkish yoke. In practice, sultans had here no real power. Their armies seldom dared to come into depth of inhospitable mountains.

Montenegrins the first of the Balkan people, since XVII th century, suited Ottoman empire «a cheerful life». Four mountain nahii at any opportunity lifted the weapon against a Turk. And when Peter the Great has begun a long train of wars with Turkey and has called the Balkan people for revolt, the first Montenegrins … have responded

Pravoslaven!

Below, on the monastery court yard, any builders dig a trench, and only becomes closer clearly are novices in dark blue uniforms. Dlinnoborodyj the monk has suddenly run up to me and has quickly-quickly begun to chatter on a mix n and Serbian.

— Nelzja, ne it is possible, ne, ne … Vytolkav me for a fencing, it has nestled on a wall, has got a mobile phone and has spoken: — Give, It is glad …

Some seconds of deaf silence, and in a court yard of a monastery have banged something. It appears, monks laid a waterpipe in a monastery. As well as hundred years ago, that though something to construct in mountains, at first it is necessary to blow up a rock.

Too stones are tenacious. Technologies have changed a little. Novices stack charges in a trench and gradually blow up mountain.

Only when dust clubs have settled, the monk, at last, has released me:

— Karasho it is made! And you who? – Its black eyes have stuck into me.
— I the journalist. Journalist … — I have repeated in English just in case and, similar, in vain.
— How, how? Ameriken?! – the monk has hissed. Its black eyes drilled in me a hole, and the small beard was stuck out by a fighting wedge forward.
— No, no, not ameriken, I — n, from Moscow! – I was justified without an English impurity.
— Rus? Pravoslaven?!
— Yes, yes, — zakival I, — Pravoslaven! Pravoslaven! — Also has convulsively dawned upon itself a cross.

The monk it is reconciliatory has stroked a beard — and has suddenly started talking in pure n.

has forgotten about us

— From Moscow, means? I happened at you. And our prior in spiritual academy in Moscow studied. And me Dragan call.

I here nejmar. Zizhditel, your way. Nine years already. And n here happen. From Ukraine, from Moldova too come.

But all the same it is not enough. has forgotten about us. And after all earlier we so were close. n helped us with the nineteenth century much. And now all Westerners climb, Catholics. Orthodox in Montenegro every year ever less.

Governors simply traitors — from Serbia to separate want. Yes, all our life has together passed.

— Sasha, we must go (we need to go) … — Alas, our guide Snezhana did not speak n.
— How, you do not know n? It is a shame, it is a shame! It is necessary to talk To brothers in n, instead of on it … — Small beard Dragana again was aggressively hitched up …

Was indignant Dragan fairly. Montenegrins always struggled for the union of the orthodox, slavic states on the Balkans. Even last decade when Yugoslavia has collapsed on five states, ancient mountain nahii the branch do not want from Yugoslavia.

And old friendly relations of Montenegro with , the biggest orthodox country, at all have no analogies.

Two states incommensurable in the sizes, hung together centuries. It is possible to tell, that last centuries in Montenegro there was a cult of .

In 1806 governor Peter Negosh has suggested to create the slavjano-Serbian state under the protection of , with capital in Dubrovnik. The state, on idea negosha, should be under Alexander's Supreme power I and cope the head from «natural ns».

Montenegrins spoke then: «We recognise over ourselves only the God and ».

Words of emperor Alexander III, told to prince Nikole in 1889 in St.-Petersburg are clear: «I Drink for health of the prince Montenegro, unique sincere and the loyal friend of ».

But sometimes such boundless trust and love reached to the point of irrationality. The example to that is history of the emperor-impostor …

As n emperor Peter III became tsar Chernogortsev

In 1766 on suburb of Montenegro the unknown wanderer appeared. Called its Stepan Malyj. He of named Peter Tretim, the emperor All-. Ostensibly he has not been killed four years ago by count Orlovym, and has run away from …

Inexplicably "Peter" has won popularity among mountaineers. Yes such, that the majority of tribes has passed under its beginning and has ceased to submit to metropolitans who possessed in the country both church, and the secular power.

Stepan Malyj has become the sovereign governor of the country.

Empress Catherine II has solved was to finish with "husband" the-impostor, but has then changed the mind and through the prince JU. V.Dolgorukogo has got "Peter Tretego's" support.

Stepan Malyj has not brought. It has lifted Montenegrins on the next war with Turkey, thereby distracting military forces of the sultan from .

In a life of forgotten highland "Peter" too has begun to put things in order: has entered a death penalty for traditional blood feud, for the first time has founded court of the European sample …

In the autumn of 1770, during road building, "emperor" was undermined on a mine and has gone blind. However Montenegrins have not changed to the governor. As early as three years Stepan Malyj lived in one of monasteries and supervised therefrom over the country.

He waited for arrival to Adriactic Sea n fleet. But in 1773 the hired killer sent by the pasha from SHkodera, has pinned up the sleeping governor of Montenegro. It seems, many consider till now as its present Peter Fedorovichem.

In Montenegro there live Negroes …

Behind remained podgoritsa, TSetine (ancient capital of Montenegro), canyons of the rivers with the walls lost somewhere under heavens. Before us Adriactic Sea.

Covered dymkoj, the narrow strip of coast merges with the sky and the sea. Mountains here approach closely to coast, and small towns as if in fear before waves, press close to walls of rocks.

Yes, except patriarchal mountain villages and monasteries, in Montenegro is also eternally cheerful coast of Adriactic Sea: Hertsegnovi, Tivat, Kotor, Budva, the Bar …

At coast it is possible to meet and Negroes, and not visiting students, and local, Montenegro! In Montenegro Negroes are obliged by the occurrence to pirates Ultsinja, the most southern city of Montenegro.

Its inhabitants grow up today olive trees, peacefully trade in oil, but such calm here stood not always: ancestors of inhabitants Ultsinja – corsairs. The real.

Ultsin long was one of the main piracy ports of the Mediterranean, and since 1572 became the present corsair republic – «gentlemen of good luck» officially corrected a city! Its pirates were given by Turks for the help in one of wars.

And Negroes ultsinskie flibustery have brought from a campaign to the North Africa. A part have sold, but two hundred families and remained to live on the Balkans. Their descendants a way of life already differ nothing from radical Montenegrins. Unless colour of a skin …

Kotorsky labyrinth

Behind a hotel window there was a rain. Not a downpour, and an opposite small spring rain.

But by the evening the haze has dissipated, and from it there were mountains, and grey lifeless language of the Side-Kotorsky of a fjord has below spread.

Most, by the way, big on Mediterranean sea. Almost on three ten kilometres it vgryzsja in coast. Local residents have noticed it for a long time and use, as sea harbour.

Located here morehody were considered as the best on Adriactic Sea, and here, in small town Perast, Peter the Great sent to study young noblemen in navigating business.

However, as one old man has told to me, anybody from them to and has not returned. All were dissolved in the motley population of the Venetian republic (it then posessed this coast).

And the navigating school so also costs till now on the bank of a fjord. Only captains here any more do not prepare.

Nearby, behind a fjord bend, the small town Kotor was attached. Red tile roofs stand so closely, that small streets it is not visible. And when you wander on a city you see only uncountable stone walls of houses, lanes and the vertical short flights of stairs conducting directly under a roof.

Kotor it is similar to a huge labyrinth on which it is possible to go hours, but and not to find the area necessary to you or a little shop. Arches similar against each other, as if intentionally confuse small streets, loops drive you round the same house.

Without «thread Ariadny» not to understand. And if you are late and hurriedly you search for the necessary direction, – absolutely a trouble. Kotor as if laughs, scoffs at strangers. After an hour of bustle on a small town of times – and you face to that house by which there has passed already time five …

Is better to wander on Kotoru without any purpose. Easier to be given to its full order and slowly to "go down stream", where eyes look.

And then the city will show all secret back streets: the bar hidden under a rock, bottomless lake, a bas-relief of the tired Christ on the thrown churchlet; will treat with the orange which has overhung from another's garden. And when it will be necessary to come back, itself will deduce, where it is necessary …

The world in the native house

The seaside earths Montenegros has received in the middle of XIX century, together with independence of Ottoman empire. The highland has grown a part of coast of Adriactic Sea occupied by Montenegrins. Earlier these earths serially were under the power of the Venetian republic, then Osmansky and Austrian empires.

Original "contact" of Montenegrins to Napoleon's armies I is described in one of «Songs of the western Slavs» Alexander Pushkin …

Centuries of a life in the multinational states of the Mediterranean should leave the trace on seaside inhabitants. Way of their life was not so patriarchal, as in mountain nahijah.

seaside Montenegrins, as well as, of course, considered the majority of the Balkan people as the close, friendly country, but desires to become inhabitants of one of provinces of n empire did not test.

Today, when the future of Montenegro dares, among all its citizens basically inhabitants of coast wish independence of Yugoslavia.

— You understand, Sasha, — explained to me kotorets Jovan, — we and Serbs – native brothers. From one mother and from one father. But children grow, and everyone starts to live the life.

Local inhabitants name the country on Latin manners – Montenegro, and Mediterranean sea — Mediteriansky. n at coast meets all less often, children study English and Italian is more often.

Signboards on shops, and those are written by a Latin, — however, it quite officially as in the country are resolved both Cyrillics, and a Latin. Money in a turn too West European, — that, in general, is not surprising if to recollect, in what condition is distressful dinar …

Silent, imperceptible opposition "primortsev" with "mountaineers" is shown in all. In religion and orthodox, in the politician — supporters of independence and adherents of the close union Catholics compete to Serbia.

The most surprising thus, that Montenegro – one of the few, if not unique region of the former Yugoslavia where people did not take up arms. Fie, fie, fie … it is visible, disagreements disagreements, and the world in the native house above all.

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